Dave's Camaro

[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by Carnut

Probably forgot the Chevy firing order.

It's etched in my brain - 18436572

Last week was the roughest work week in my entire career.

Then we had 42 people at our house last night for a party.

The Camaro has been on the low priority list.

I now have spark to the plugs...that's the only improvement since I last wrote.

[Carnut]

You need to get rid of these outside distractions like family and work.

Sheesh.

[TOMMY GUN]

Wow, 42 people to fix one Camaro?

That sucks.




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[gr8snkbite]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Wow, 42 people to fix one Camaro?

That sucks.




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they were from Lurkistan.....

[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Wow, 42 people to fix one Camaro?

That sucks.

.

Oh really?

Well, the real reason it's taking so long is that I've been installing a custom sound system....van boy.

[Joe G]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Oh really?

Well, the real reason it's taking so long is that I've been installing a custom sound system....van boy.


Attachment 5243

Is that so you can't hear Terry1234 during long trips??









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[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Oh really?

Well, the real reason it's taking so long is that I've been installing a custom sound system....van boy.


Attachment 5243

I can see you now.



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[Carnut]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Oh really?

Well, the real reason it's taking so long is that I've been installing a custom sound system....van boy.


Attachment 5243

I don't think I like the extra doors you added.

[gr8snkbite]

that is god aweful.....

[Alloy Dave]

Ok, tried a lot more things, still no luck. I do have one question, and please don't answer by saying "I'd just replace them to be safe, they don't cost much"...because I already did that.

Question is...if you flood an engine with fuel, are the plugs ruined for good, or can you remove them, blow them off with an air compressor, and put back in? I've been cranking this thing so much I'm wondering about the plugs again.

Items done today:

* Set the valves (they were all pretty close already)
* Moved all wires on dist cap one position to allow for more timing advance
* tried starting fluid
* checked for oil in water and water in oil, none found
* checked for obvious vacuum leaks, none found
* 30 minute visual inspection of engine, nothing unusual found
* tested Unilite module using Mallory troubleshooting guide..it's working fine
* while valve covers were off, cranked engine to verify that all rockers were moving...wanted to make sure I didn't have a broken pushrod or something odd like that...all looked good

Next step - waiting on a friend to bring a compression gauge...we'll test that.

Dave

[Johnny Dangerously]

I think you're okay with the plugs. Go ahead & dry them off.


`

[TOMMY GUN]

Simple, but is there fresh gas in the car and through the lines?

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[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Simple, but is there fresh gas in the car and through the lines?

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Yes, read the original post....dufus.




I parked downhill on our driveway, disconnected the fuel line at the lowest point, drained out about 4 gallons (that's all it had in the tank), then put a brand new fuel filter on, added 4 fresh gallons.

I did use the old gas in my lawnmower...worked fine.

[TOMMY GUN]

Was it running fine when you originally dropped it off?

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[Alloy Dave]

Yes, ran fine when I dropped it off. Barely ran getting it home 3 miles, but it did run. I'm thinking I'm doing something wrong with the ignition system. I don't know how much initial timing I should be dialing in...when you get away from stock parts you're kinda guessing to some extent. I'm posting on some Z28 sites because I think others have similar engine combos and can help. One guy suggested 10 degrees BTDC even though stock spec is 4. I am waiting to see what others say.

The compression test is the next big step...waiting on a tester from a friend.

Dave

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Yes, ran fine when I dropped it off. Barely ran getting it home 3 miles, but it did run. I'm thinking I'm doing something wrong with the ignition system. I don't know how much initial timing I should be dialing in...when you get away from stock parts you're kinda guessing to some extent. I'm posting on some Z28 sites because I think others have similar engine combos and can help. One guy suggested 10 degrees BTDC even though stock spec is 4. I am waiting to see what others say.

The compression test is the next big step...waiting on a tester from a friend.

Dave

What cam do you have?

What do the cam specs call for?

What type distributor do you have? Ignition module? Multi-spark? MSD?

Do you have a regular timing light or an advancable timing light?

.

[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

What cam do you have?

What do the cam specs call for?

What type distributor do you have? Ignition module? Multi-spark? MSD?

Do you have a regular timing light or an advancable timing light?

.

Duntov 30-30 cam. Not sure what you mean by "what specs" does the cam call for.

Distributor is Mallory Unilite. Module is integral to the distributor. I do not have any fancy electronics, just a coil and the Unilite.

Regular timing light, although my friend is bringing an advance light. I have a tape on the balancer so I can read up to about 40 degrees BTDC.

Now, are you gonna suggest something, or just keep asking questions.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Duntov 30-30 cam. Not sure what you mean by "what specs" does the cam call for.

Distributor is Mallory Unilite. Module is integral to the distributor. I do not have any fancy electronics, just a coil and the Unilite.

Regular timing light, although my friend is bringing an advance light. I have a tape on the balancer so I can read up to about 40 degrees BTDC.

Now, are you gonna suggest something, or just keep asking questions.

Sometimes the cam spec sheet suggest timing w/ a stock distributor to go by.

Some say to add 4 degrees or so.

Not sure what stock is, but I would guess it needs to be up to 10 degrees before that w/ a mild cam.

I take it you double checked the distributor location in relation to actual TDC.


Have you ever messed w/ the mechanical part of the distributor? I believe your type you can change it w/ an allen wrench through the vac canister.

Perhaps from sitting the mechanical advance in the distributor is gunked up?

Do you have a minimum constant 12V going into the coil? Wires to coil have good connections?

Is there a ballast? Good connection? The purpose of an ignition ballast resistor between the ignition switch (12V) and the ignition coil positive terminal
is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil. Failure to use an ignition ballast resistor will eventually destroy an ignition module.

How about the ground connection from the distributor? Is it grounded to a good source w/ no oil on it?



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[Carnut]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Sometimes the cam spec sheet suggest timing w/ a stock distributor to go by.

Some say to add 4 degrees or so.

Not sure what stock is, but I would guess it needs to be up to 10 degrees before that w/ a mild cam.

I take it you double checked the distributor location in relation to actual TDC.


Have you ever messed w/ the mechanical part of the distributor? I believe your type you can change it w/ an allen wrench through the vac canister.

Perhaps from sitting the mechanical advance in the distributor is gunked up?

Do you have a minimum constant 12V going into the coil? Wires to coil have good connections?

Is there a ballast? Good connection? The purpose of an ignition ballast resistor between the ignition switch (12V) and the ignition coil positive terminal
is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil. Failure to use an ignition ballast resistor will eventually destroy an ignition module.

How about the ground connection from the distributor? Is it grounded to a good source w/ no oil on it?



.

You need to go back and check some more basics.

1. Body shops sometimes pull wires to allow for painting. They may forget or not tighten them. A bad engine to body and body to battery could be causing your problem. They might also paint and area, put on a ground and end up with too much paint, preventing a good ground. With out a good engine ground even the best ignition system will have a weak or no spark.

2. An ignitiion switch, especially a vintage one, could have some internal corrosion from sitting. You could hot wire it or replace it with a known good one.

3. Remember a loose electrical connection can test good with an ohm meter when there is no load, but will lose its connectivity with a load.

4. Also, low voltage, check your battery for 13.2 volts. Alternator working?

5. You should have full voltage at the wire before the ballust resistor.

6 Until you get a nice bright spark, you need to keep looking at the electrical system.

[Carnut]

I forgot to ask, are you still running the orginal wiring harness?

Last problem area to check. The connector where the harness goes though the fire wall often corrodes. Sitting can make it worse. You might try pulling it off and using and electrical contact cleaner.