Brake Power Bleeder

[Carnut]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

I'm sending some boys over to put your lights out. :trouble-1:


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It will be dark soon, I hope they have better lights than you do.

[TOMMY GUN]

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[Birdman]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Does anyone use one of those pump power bleeders for there cars?

What type do you use?

I've heard to use a diaphragm type so as not to introduce air into the system.

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TG , while this type will get the job done it is not what I would use to bleed my brakes especially when using the Motul 600 high performance brake fluid.It uses air pressure to push the fluid through the system.

It would be better to use a vacuum type bleeder at each wheel or simply use the old glass bottle and hose type method at each wheel. This will ensure that no air /moisture will contaminate the fluid thus reducing it's temp range.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Birdman

TG , while this type will get the job done it is not what I would use to bleed my brakes especially when using the Motul 600 high performance brake fluid.It uses air pressure to push the fluid through the system.

It would be better to use a vacuum type bleeder at each wheel or simply use the old glass bottle and hose type method at each wheel. This will ensure that no air /moisture will contaminate the fluid thus reducing it's temp range.

Wouldn't the diaphragm type not let air/moisture in?

Just trying to think of an easier way?

This is basically what I use now...


Mityvac MV6820 Brake Bleeder Kit Great for Auto Motorcycle ATV - tooldesk.com

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[Birdman]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Wouldn't the diaphragm type not let air/moisture in?

Just trying to think of an easier way?

This is basically what I use now...


Mityvac MV6820 Brake Bleeder Kit Great for Auto Motorcycle ATV - tooldesk.com

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I find that the old fashioned way works best for me. That vac type you have is fine though I would just use that IMO.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Birdman

I find that the old fashioned way works best for me. That vac type you have is fine though I would just use that IMO.

There seems to be a pattern forming here.

I'm trying to find easier ways to do things and you keep me doing them the same way.:mafia20smile:


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[Carnut]

I don't think you really get contaminates in the brake fluid with the pump up type. You only pump them up enough to have a slight pressure, say a couple pounds. The fluid is much heavy than the air plus two pounds. For the air to get into into it would have to be much denser and weigh more that the fluid.

Moisture is in the air, brake fluid can absorb it and does, but I can't believe you are dealing with enough to make a difference.

I used one those units for years and never had any issues.

Just my 2 cents.

[TOMMY GUN]

Tonights SMACKDOWN AT 11...in this corner CARNUT< rodent of the night.

And in this corner BIRDMAN, bird w/ a plan.





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[Carnut]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Tonights SMACKDOWN AT 11...in this corner CARNUT< rodent of the night.

And in this corner BIRDMAN, bird w/ a plan.





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Of course I use acorn oil in my brakes.

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by Carnut

I don't think you really get contaminates in the brake fluid with the pump up type. You only pump them up enough to have a slight pressure, say a couple pounds. The fluid is much heavy than the air plus two pounds. For the air to get into into it would have to be much denser and weigh more that the fluid.

Moisture is in the air, brake fluid can absorb it and does, but I can't believe you are dealing with enough to make a difference.

I used one those units for years and never had any issues.

Just my 2 cents.

This hold true for regular dot 3 brake fluid but the problem with the hp performance fluids is they are very sensitive to the presence of any moisture and even the most minute amount will cause it to loose some of it's high heat properties thus it's effectiveness under hard braking when you need it the most.
That's why they also reccomend changing all the fluid after a weekend of track use, it still works but it looses it's efectivness due to tiny amounts of moisture getting in the system.
Remember the purpose of a Motul 600 type fluid is to extend the heat range of the brake fluid to allow for the heavy braking that's associated with high on track speeds.

There seems to be a pattern forming here.

I'm trying to find easier ways to do things and you keep me doing them the same way.

Easier is not always better......... :trouble-1:

[TOMMY GUN]

:mafia20smile:

[Alloy Dave]

I've never used a power bleeder. I've done it two different ways.

1) gravity bleeding - this works well if you have no air in the system. In other words, if you just want to let some of the old fluid out and put some new fluid in of the same type. The one downside is that it's very slow...you crack one bleeder at a time and wait. When I used to do it this way at the shop, I'd align cars in one bay while a wheel was bleeding in the other bay...and switch wheels after each alignment (about 20-30 minutes).

2) Pump method - requires a partner that follows instructions well. This is my favorite. If anyone is really interested let me know and I can describe in detail, but essentially one person pushes down on the pedal while the other loosens the bleeder. There are some very specific instructions that must be followed in this method, but once you get the hang of it, it's very easy and fast. I did that old Dakota truck in less than 5 minutes without even jacking the car up.

Dave

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Something like this is what I'm talking about...


Amazon.com: Motive Products Custom Ford Power Bleeder: Home Improvement


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Originally Posted by Carnut

I have one just like that. They work great. Just need the right kind of adapter.:mafia20smile:

Okay, found it.

Question still is...

My dealer told me 6 months ago that the cap on a GT500 brake reservoir is a different size and/or thread than most Fords of the past, so how do I know if this one will work?

Anyone know if it is true ?

Anyone with a Few Mustangs laying around to see if the brake caps are the same size?


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[Dactyl]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Okay, found it.

Question still is...

My dealer told me 6 months ago that the cap on a GT500 brake reservoir is a different size and/or thread than most Fords of the past, so how do I know if this one will work?

Anyone know if it is true ?

Anyone with a Few Mustangs laying around to see if the brake caps are the same size?


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Correct. The GT500 is different and requires a special adapter kit a d you have to use the thicker gasket provided. I highly recommend that if you are going to order one you call them and tell them your specific application. They have the proper adapter and it does work.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Dactyl

Correct. The GT500 is different and requires a special adapter kit a d you have to use the thicker gasket provided. I highly recommend that if you are going to order one you call them and tell them your specific application. They have the proper adapter and it does work.

Thank you very much.

[TOMMY GUN]

YouTube - Do it yourself brake bleeding

[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

Thank you very much.

Sales people will often tell you anything to get you to buy. I'd get in writing from them that if it does not fit, they will refund and pay return postage.

Dave

[Dactyl]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Sales people will often tell you anything to get you to buy. I'd get in writing from them that if it does not fit, they will refund and pay return postage.

Dave

it fits. It works. And they stand behind the product.

[mastersmech1]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

He takes late afternoon naps, skip yours and do it then. This message will self destruct in 10 seconds...



I'll try the cap, good idea. I can get MM's.



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[TOMMY GUN]

Quit pulling up old posts.