Performance Brake Upgrade

[TOMMY GUN]

I did a full brake upgrade outside of changing the calipers.



Started by removing the front and rear calipers, rotors and brake lines (hoses).

On the front I installed the FRPP cooling kit backing plates.



After spraying my new cross drilled/slotted rotors with brake anti-squeal, I installed them.





* Note: Rotors are directional and marked as such *


Then installed the new Porterfield pads front and rear.




The front pads were easy, just pry apart a little, push out these pins and the pads pull straight out.



The rear caliper were a pain in the butt!!

Everyone told me they just turned in and then pop the pads in.

It was a pain trying to turn in the pistons on the rear, I did not buy a tool because everyone told me they turn in easily w/o one.

Then I installed the front and rear Stainless lines by Goodridge.

* Note: Each line is made specific for each wheel. *

This is all that installed.





Then I bled the system. I had a volunteer (Co Pilot) work the pedal, as I bled the brakes. I started from the pass. rear and bled till I got good flow (took a little bit) then the drivers rear, pass front and drivers front. As I did the front I did the outside bleeders first and then the inside (fronts have 2 bleeders each). In the meantime I kept a check on the fluid level. Then I did a once around again and topped off the reservoir...not to the top so as not to get that leak everyone is talking about. (mine does not leak because I don't overfill it). It was relatively easy to bleed this car, the bleeders are placed high so the air quickly comes out. I used one container to flush the whole system, and had another on hand for backup.



Then I installed the brake cooling kit.

Pretty straight forward, just find a good path and make sure they can reach and contract w/o interference.




Then I installed my custom made Grill inserts.





Took probably 3-4 hours w/o a lift.


:BigBoss2:

[Carnut]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

I did a full brake upgrade outside of changing the calipers.



Started by removing the front and rear calipers, rotors and brake lines (hoses).

On the front I installed the FRPP cooling kit backing plates.



After spraying my new cross drilled/slotted rotors with brake anti-squeal, I installed them.





* Note: Rotors are directional and marked as such *


Then installed the new Porterfield pads front and rear.




The front pads were easy, just pry apart a little, push out these pins and the pads pull straight out.



The rear caliper were a pain in the butt!!

Everyone told me they just turned in and then pop the pads in.

It was a pain trying to turn in the pistons on the rear, I did not buy a tool because everyone told me they turn in easily w/o one.

Then I installed the front and rear Stainless lines by Goodridge.

* Note: Each line is made specific for each wheel. *

This is all that installed.





Then I bled the system. I had a volunteer (Co Pilot) work the pedal, as I bled the brakes. I started from the pass. rear and bled till I got good flow (took a little bit) then the drivers rear, pass front and drivers front. As I did the front I did the outside bleeders first and then the inside (fronts have 2 bleeders each). In the meantime I kept a check on the fluid level. Then I did a once around again and topped off the reservoir...not to the top so as not to get that leak everyone is talking about. (mine does not leak because I don't overfill it). It was relatively easy to bleed this car, the bleeders are placed high so the air quickly comes out. I used one container to flush the whole system, and had another on hand for backup.



Then I installed the brake cooling kit.

Pretty straight forward, just find a good path and make sure they can reach and contract w/o interference.




Then I installed my custom made Grill inserts.





Took probably 3-4 hours w/o a lift.


:BigBoss2:

Do you notice any difference on the street?

How about the track?

I'm not familiar with spraying rotors with brake anti squeal, is this a cleaner?

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Carnut

Do you notice any difference on the street?

How about the track?

I'm not familiar with spraying rotors with brake anti squeal, is this a cleaner?

The only real difference I have seen on the street is the pads. About 30% less dust.

They worked awesome on the track. Not much fade feel, although once hot they did seem to be 'rough' feeling, but I could not see any visible difference.

The Porterfields were great. After the second day at the track guys with other brands (Hawk) were changing out pads. When I got home I still had 1/2 my pads front and rear and I think I was going deeper into the turns before I laid on the brakes than they were.

The anti-squeal was a suggestion form a site I read up on.

.

[mastersmech1]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

the track guys with other brands (Hawk) were changing out pads. When I got home I still had 1/2 my pads front and rear and I think I was going deeper into the turns before I laid on the brakes than they were.
.

Going 25-30 MPH doesn't put much stress on your brakes....:sHa_dielaughing2:

[Carnut]

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by mastersmech1

Going 25-30 MPH doesn't put much stress on your brakes....:sHa_dielaughing2:

I hit 55 a few times thank you very much!


.

[Joker]

Nice work and write up.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Joker

Nice work and write up.

Nice avatar, thanks for posting.


.

[Birdman]

Nice thread and pics TG, thanks for contributing !:mafia20smile:

[Alloy Dave]

Nicely done TG.

This is the 2nd best technical thread.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Alloy Dave

Nicely done TG.

This is the 2nd best technical thread.

I didn't know you thought my 'FRPP Handling Pack' thread was the best. Thanks.


FRPP Handling Pack Install



..

[6-Speed]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

I did a full brake upgrade outside of changing the calipers.

The rear caliper were a pain in the butt!!

Everyone told me they just turned in and then pop the pads in.

It was a pain trying to turn in the pistons on the rear, I did not buy a tool because everyone told me they turn in easily w/o one.

Harbor Freight sells a nice caliper tool set that I often see on sale for $19.99. I used it for the first time a few weeks ago changing the pads on my Honda Odyssey - works like a champ for resetting the pistons.

Porterfield pads are planned for 2009.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by 6-Speed

Harbor Freight sells a nice caliper tool set that I often see on sale for $19.99. I used it for the first time a few weeks ago changing the pads on my Honda Odyssey - works like a champ for resetting the pistons.

Porterfield pads are planned for 2009.

I'll have to check that out.

I wonder what tool is used at a dealership?


.

[RStangsOC]

Stillen rotors?

[JTB]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

I did a full brake upgrade outside of changing the calipers.



Started by removing the front and rear calipers, rotors and brake lines (hoses).

On the front I installed the FRPP cooling kit backing plates.



After spraying my new cross drilled/slotted rotors with brake anti-squeal, I installed them.





* Note: Rotors are directional and marked as such *


Then installed the new Porterfield pads front and rear.




The front pads were easy, just pry apart a little, push out these pins and the pads pull straight out.



The rear caliper were a pain in the butt!!

Everyone told me they just turned in and then pop the pads in.

It was a pain trying to turn in the pistons on the rear, I did not buy a tool because everyone told me they turn in easily w/o one.

Then I installed the front and rear Stainless lines by Goodridge.

* Note: Each line is made specific for each wheel. *

This is all that installed.





Then I bled the system. I had a volunteer (Co Pilot) work the pedal, as I bled the brakes. I started from the pass. rear and bled till I got good flow (took a little bit) then the drivers rear, pass front and drivers front. As I did the front I did the outside bleeders first and then the inside (fronts have 2 bleeders each). In the meantime I kept a check on the fluid level. Then I did a once around again and topped off the reservoir...not to the top so as not to get that leak everyone is talking about. (mine does not leak because I don't overfill it). It was relatively easy to bleed this car, the bleeders are placed high so the air quickly comes out. I used one container to flush the whole system, and had another on hand for backup.



Then I installed the brake cooling kit.

Pretty straight forward, just find a good path and make sure they can reach and contract w/o interference.




Then I installed my custom made Grill inserts.





Took probably 3-4 hours w/o a lift.


:BigBoss2:

I use the Porterfields too, but with stock rotors.

Where did you get your Grill Inserts or did you make them?

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by RStangsOC

Stillen rotors?

Of course they are Stillen rotors.


.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by JTB Consulting

I use the Porterfields too, but with stock rotors.

Where did you get your Grill Inserts or did you make them?

Check your PM's.


.