Time for LCA's

[Mr. White]

I have been over and over LCA posts over the past few days, and need to make a decision. I have narrowed my search to 2.

I want to install this myself, as it is time to jump in and get my hands dirty. For once, I have a vehicle that I have no plans of selling, even after 14mos.


Feedback, please...

BMR LCA


STEEDA LCA

The Steeda from our store or others is more expensive, but cost is not the issue.

[bdv1973]

I have heard good things about the Steeda LCA's on the GT but not sre about the GT500

Im sure Steeda put the same engineering into the GT500's as they did the GT's

[Johnny Dangerously]

Badboy500, Tommy Gun & Orf have LCAs installed. Not sure which ones though.

[Mr. White]

Hopefully they'll see this and give me some feedback. I am struggling a bit with all the different opinions at this time.

[Dad's72Mach]

Have you seen the wheel hop thread on TS? Lotta guys talkin up the BMR's. I am in the same boat as you Max, not sure which to get.

[Mr. White]

Originally Posted by Dad's72Mach

Have you seen the wheel hop thread on TS? Lotta guys talkin up the BMR's. I am in the same boat as you Max, not sure which to get.

Yes,I was looking at the BMR that cost $129 until I got to looking at the Billet version. I am hoping this thread can help me nail down the decision.

[Joe G]

I really like what I've heard and read about the J&M products. http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?&ke...d=43&catcount=

TG uses their UCA I know.

I'm 95% sure I'll use their UCA and billet LCA when I do the swap.

I don't trust the BMR after all the issues they had with the bushings. I know everyone says that it's fixed... but it seemed to take forever, with some people swapping them out more than once before it was fixed.

Heard nothing but good things about the Steeda.

JMO of course. :D

[Birdman]

I have the Fiore LCA's on mine. I like them and haven't had any problems with them (1-1/2 years now).




If I were to choose between the Steeda or BMR I would say Steeda without question. (Evolution's are the same as Steeda also)

[Joe G]

Those Fiore's are a work of art IMO. Pricey IIRC, but top notch.

[rown4au]

Originally Posted by Joe G

I really like what I've heard and read about the J&M products. http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?&ke...d=43&catcount=

TG uses their UCA I know.

I'm 95% sure I'll use their UCA and billet LCA when I do the swap.

JMO of course. :D

Has anyone used these? I liked what I read about them and maybe its a gimmick but the poly-ball bushing seems like a good design.

[Dad's72Mach]

Originally Posted by Joe G

Those Fiore's are a work of art IMO. Pricey IIRC, but top notch.

+1. Those are very nice looking.

[Mr. White]

Originally Posted by Birdman

I have the Fiore LCA's on mine. I like them and haven't had any problems with them (1-1/2 years now).




If I were to choose between the Steeda or BMR I would say Steeda without question. (Evolution's are the same as Steeda also)

How about installation for a novice? I am preety good with PC's but have a lot to learn on the vehicles. Wold this be a god candidate for my first work on the car?

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by MadMax

How about installation for a novice? I am preety good with PC's but have a lot to learn on the vehicles. Wold this be a god candidate for my first work on the car?

Yes the LCA's are one of the easiest things to change but you will need a torque wrench capable of 129 ft lbs, some metric wrenches and sockets.

The suspension must be loaded when you tighten the bolts either on a ramp type lift or jack stands under the axles.

[Mr. White]

May be time to give it a whirl!

[Orf]

I have the BMR.

I did the swap very early on. My car is a street ride (for now), so I don't think it is overly critical which unit to go with.

Of the two you mentioned, for track use, I would probably go with Steeda.

[BADBOY500]

I had the bmr with poli bush and riped them up so I just went right to the bmr race with spherical rod ends......

I think you would be best off with the Steeda set...JMO..

[CH53Driver]

Personally, I like the looks of the Steeda/Evolution LCA's (I believe they are made by Metco). Of course, the Fiore's look pretty sweet!

I did just pick up a used set of the J&M LCA's from a member of TS for $50. I figure I can't lose on that deal, since I already have someone lined up to buy my stock LCA's for $20.

Now when you say the suspension has to be "loaded" when you do the install, what exactly does that mean since I was planning on doing this job myself too? Does that mean have the side you are swapping out jacked up like in the picture on this thread or does that mean the car should be sitting statically on the ground (or flat lift)?

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by MadMax

Yes,I was looking at the BMR that cost $129 until I got to looking at the Billet version. I am hoping this thread can help me nail down the decision.

I liked the BMR from the start.

I had a problem and they fixed it w/ new bushings.

I had a problem again, but it was because of the UCA not having the right size bolt and/or hole. (the sloppy clearance made fro to much play and hence the LCA bushings tearing up...I believe)

So w/ the new bushings from BMR and a J&M UCA w/ anti clunk bushing my problems were solved and no issue since.

I road coursed the car last weekend and do not hear any new noise, but plan on taking apart to make sure.




I have a BMR adj UCA w/ new bushings for sale, but would reccomend using w/ an anti clunk type bushing if you play hard.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Birdman

Yes the LCA's are one of the easiest things to change but you will need a torque wrench capable of 129 ft lbs, some metric wrenches and sockets.

The suspension must be loaded when you tighten the bolts either on a ramp type lift or jack stands under the axles.

LCA's = pretty easy

UCA = a whole different story.:mafia20smile:

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by CH53Driver

Personally, I like the looks of the Steeda/Evolution LCA's (I believe they are made by Metco). Of course, the Fiore's look pretty sweet!

I did just pick up a used set of the J&M LCA's from a member of TS for $50. I figure I can't lose on that deal, since I already have someone lined up to buy my stock LCA's for $20.

Now when you say the suspension has to be "loaded" when you do the install, what exactly does that mean since I was planning on doing this job myself too? Does that mean have the side you are swapping out jacked up like in the picture on this thread or does that mean the car should be sitting statically on the ground (or flat lift)?

Matt,
The weight on the rear wheels should be even on both sides so a drive on lift is best but you could also do it with jack stands too.