Step by step TVS install

[Justin@VMP]

I am not talking about the shaft, i'm talking about the snout, the cast aluminum piece behind it.

I had another shop tell me they saw a pulley clearance itself on a TVS, that is no good when something is going to spin 19000rpm and have 60-80hp transmitted through it.

The TVS is actually different, at first look one will see this, and measurements will confirm this. If you are running a 2.6" pulley on a TVS meant for a stock blower only then you are cutting it too close IMO and something could fail. This is why guys like steeda do not recommend using their pulley on a tvs, because it was only designed for an M122.

Anyone running smaller than a 2.6" pulley on a tvs or m122 is machining the snout down and possibly changing out bearings inside.

KB only goes down to a 2.5" pulley.

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by Justin@VMP

I am not talking about the shaft, i'm talking about the snout, the cast aluminum piece behind it.

I had another shop tell me they saw a pulley clearance itself on a TVS, that is no good when something is going to spin 19000rpm and have 60-80hp transmitted through it.

The TVS is actually different, at first look one will see this, and measurements will confirm this. If you are running a 2.6" pulley on a TVS meant for a stock blower only then you are cutting it too close IMO and something could fail. This is why guys like steeda do not recommend using their pulley on a tvs, because it was only designed for an M122.

Anyone running smaller than a 2.6" pulley on a tvs or m122 is machining the snout down and possibly changing out bearings inside.

KB only goes down to a 2.5" pulley.

I understand what you meant about the clearence between the inside of the pulley and the machined snout , it is very close indeed. I've had mine on for over a year now without issue .
I agree if the pulley actually touched the snout in any way it would induce heat and at the very least shorten bearing life.

My remarks regarding moving the pulley back after first installing it being a source of a problem were addressing your account of a pulley that came loose and needed a keyway to secure it.

[Tob]

Originally Posted by Justin@VMP

I had another shop tell me they saw a pulley clearance itself on a TVS, that is no good when something is going to spin 19000rpm and have 60-80hp transmitted through it.

Justin, were you talking about the stock TVS pulley or an aftermarket pulley on a TVS?

Tob

[LuckySnake]

Originally Posted by Birdman

After installing the 08 balancer it was time to install the TVS & the FRPP CAI.

I disconnected the battery first . (The FRPP directions tell you to disconnect the fuse to the fuel pumps then start the car to burn all the fuel in the lines and dissipate the pressure.) I didn’t do this as the car had been sitting for over a week without starting so I figured the pressure was down . As it turned out I was right and there were no issues,
Then I removed the strut tower brace by removing the two bolts on each side.


Next I disconnected the various wire connectors on the drivers side. Be sure to slide back the safty locks 1st so you can release the clips.


Next I removed the CAI tube and assembly.

Then disconnected the booster and ventilation vac lines from the housing.( you need a tool to release the lock. )

Then proceeded to remove the TB held on by 4 bolts.


Some oil had entered in on the back side of the TB near the DBW controls where the Vapor evac system line connects.


A bit more oil also entered in the plenum between the TB and the blower housing where the brake booster line and the PCV line connects .You can see why it pays to change the oil often to keep it clean.


Now on to the passenger side.
Disconnect the vac lines from the EGR then remove the two bolts holding the EGR to the housing . (Be careful not to lose the SS gasket as it must be reused.) I didn’t disconnect the main EGR tube at this time ( more on that later)


There is another vac line in the rear of the blower housing that must also be disconnected.


Part #2
Then I removed the (2) two bolts holding down the fuel rails and disconnected the wire connector too then carefully lifted the fuel rail with injectors out and placed it across in front of the blower snout but be careful not to kink the line.
( The FRPP directions say to remove both sides but I found it to be unnecessary.)

In order to get at all the bolts holding the blower to the intake manifold you must also remove the air plenum after the TB.

Then you can remove all 10 bolts holding the SC to the manifold.

Evidence of oil in the blower entry point ….almost none in the inter cooler .



After removing the blower I then removed the EGR valve ( much easier to access without the blower in place)
Then after a light coat of oil on the original factory gasket I set the new TVS blower in place and torqued to specs and sequence.
Then reinstalled everything in reverse order being careful to use the new shorter EGR bolts supplied with the blower and the old SS gasket.


The new monoblade TB from Evolution Performance

I opted to use the FRPP CAI instead of the JLT that I already had because the FRPP works better to keep hot air from the Engine compartment out and does a better job at bringing in cooler air from the fender well.
I am very concerned with keeping the air charge as cool as possible which is one of the biggest reasons for going with the TVS over the stock blower. I am also running a larger heat exchanger to help in this matter as well as the monoblade TB.

I also opted for the Evolution Performance 2.7 upper pulley . I already had the Metco idler pulley.


Lastly I installed the Evolution tune and started the car. It runs perfect I drove it to Evolution where it was further tuned with a conservitive tune (about 4* less timing )then dynoed. 665rwhp, 664rwtq @ 14.6 lbs of boost

Hello Birdman, I don't see any mention of transfering the alignment bushings from the stock blower to your TVS in this pix. You can ask me why I mention but I'll save the trouble, several months after I sold the original blower, the guy calls me up and says hey, why did you leave an alignment bushing in your blower? I was like ah crap. I got the bushing back but decided against pulling the blower back up to install one alighnment bushing. I was able to verify the other bushing was in the manifold though pix I took.

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by LuckySnake

Hello Birdman, I don't see any mention of transfering the alignment bushings from the stock blower to your TVS in this pix. You can ask me why I mention but I'll save the trouble, several months after I sold the original blower, the guy calls me up and says hey, why did you leave an alignment bushing in your blower? I was like ah crap. I got the bushing back but decided against pulling the blower back up to install one alighnment bushing. I was able to verify the other bushing was in the manifold though pix I took.

The alignment bushings are a function of the lower intake manifold therefore should stay with the manifold not the blower.

[LuckySnake]

I understand, yours are shown with the original blower.

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by LuckySnake

I understand, yours are shown with the original blower.

I can't remember since it's been so long but I believe I reused them for the TVS. I do believe these can be purchased separately from Ford parts if need be.

[gr8snkbite]

Originally Posted by Birdman

I can't remember since it's been so long but I believe I reused them for the TVS. I do believe these can be purchased separately from Ford parts if need be.

i did...when i replaced mine, when pulling the stocker, both stayed in place..just dropped the TVS right on them..

[BAD SNAKE]

Originally Posted by Birdman

The alignment bushings are a function of the lower intake manifold therefore should stay with the manifold not the blower.

Does anybody have any pictures of the alignment bushings?
Thanks!

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by BAD SNAKE

Does anybody have any pictures of the alignment bushings?
Thanks!

In Birdmans pic here, you can see a bushing in the upper left hole and in the second lower right hole.

.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Birdman

I understand what you meant about the clearence between the inside of the pulley and the machined snout , it is very close indeed. I've had mine on for over a year now without issue .
I agree if the pulley actually touched the snout in any way it would induce heat and at the very least shorten bearing life.

My remarks regarding moving the pulley back after first installing it being a source of a problem were addressing your account of a pulley that came loose and needed a keyway to secure it.

I've had mine on for a year now and no issues. Even have taken it to the track for a couple days.


I have both stock pulleys, I'll have to Mic them and see what the sizes are, or is it really that the snout is supposedly a touch larger?

.

[BAD SNAKE]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

In Birdmans pic here, you can see a bushing in the upper left hole and in the second lower right hole.

.

Thanks TOMMY GUN
The TVS install is my next mod and every little bit of information helps.

[TOMMY GUN]

It's real easy once you have the details down.

.

[Justin@VMP]

Originally Posted by Tob

Justin, were you talking about the stock TVS pulley or an aftermarket pulley on a TVS?

Tob

The problem I am referring to is when using an aftermarket pulley that is meant to fit a stock blower but using it on a TVS.

[TOMMY GUN]

Originally Posted by Justin@VMP

The problem I am referring to is when using an aftermarket pulley that is meant to fit a stock blower but using it on a TVS.

I pulled my Metco off my stock S/C and put it on my TVS?


I baby my car though.


.

[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

It's real easy once you have the details down.

.

The hardest part I had was figuring out how to disconnect all the various clips for fuel lines, wiring, etc....each one seemed to be slightly different.