Troubleshooting V-ribbed Belt Noise (chirping)

[Birdman]

Thanks to Farmdog for the link to this tech article....thought I'd post it here for us all.


Troubleshooting V-ribbed Belt Noise

Terms such as chirp, squeal, rumble and yelp have been used in the automotive industry to describe noises caused by friction-induced vibration in engine accessory drive belts. The following report, based on testing by Gates Corporation, examines primary causes and remedies for this problem.

To the educated ear, drive belt noise can be as
distinctive as the notes on a musical scale.

Additional V-ribbed Belt Info
Product Application

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Under-The-Hood Harmonics
All sounds that are audible to the human ear have their origins in some vibrating surface. For example, intermittent chirping that increases in frequency as the engine is revved up can be the result of belt vibration caused by misaligned drive pulleys -- a leading cause of belt noise. As a misaligned V-ribbed belt span enters the grooves of a pulley, initial contact is made with only one side of the V-groove. The greater the misalignment angle, the greater the radial sliding length experienced by the belt ribs as the belt seats in the pulley causing frictional vibrations, or chirping (see Figure 1).
Figure 1
Radial sliding motion of V-ribbed belt.
Low belt tension, contamination and belt vibration are other common sources of belt noise. A screeching or squealing noise that occurs when pulling away from a stop normally indicates a lack of tension; check belt tension and automatic tensioners.
A tapping or grinding noise caused by a pebble imbedded in the belt is a common occurrence. Grinding sound also can result from damaged bearings, which must be replaced, aligned and lubricated to eliminate the noise and further damage.
Vibration and noise can develop over time as drive components such as pulleys and spring tensioners wear out of tolerance, as bearings and brackets loosen, or as belts wear and stretch.
Diagnosing The Problem
In ongoing studies at the Gates Belt Testing Laboratory in Denver, engineers have gained the following insights to noise resulting from misalignment:
1. Chirp noise caused by drive misalignment occurs upon entry of the span into the pulley as belt ribs seat into the pulley grooves, not as the belt exits.
2. Belts are less likely to generate misalignment noise when they are in new condition. As belts wear in, they develop a smooth, glossy surface which increases the likelihood for noise. This wear-in process is accelerated when misalignment conditions exist in the drive.
3. The angle between belt span and pulley is the critical factor responsible for causing the "chirp" associated with misalignment noise. Misalignment angle can result from many different combinations of pulley positions -- parallel and angular are two ty pical examples (see Figures 2 & 3).

Figure 2
Parallel misalignment.
Figure 3
Angular misalignment.

4. Misalignment noise occurs most frequently on the shortest spans in a drive, most often between a backside pulley and an adjacent accessory pulley. Proper pulley alignment is particularly critical in these locations.
5. Flat or crowned pulleys have no grooves to guide the belt and can be a common source of drive misalignment.
6. Smaller diameter pulleys exhibit less sensitivity to misalignment noise due to their smaller area of sliding contact between the belt and pulley.
7. Misalignment noise is generally loudest at idle speed and diminishes with increasing engine rpm, often vanishing altogether above 2500 rpm.
8. The presence of high humidity (or a damp belt) often increases the likelihood for misalignment noise to occur.
In The Shop
Whenever a vehicle owner complains of belt noise, Gates says it is important to determine the type of noise and under what circumstances it occurs. A solution to a noise problem caused by drive misalignment is not likely to resolve a slip noise problem th at may be caused by insufficient tension or some other problem. Find out if the problem is more noticeable in the morning while the engine is cool (cool, damp belt). Is the noise loudest at idle speed, or when accelerating or shifting gears (rapid changes in engine speed can cause a belt to slip)?
Next, attempt to recreate the problem in the service bay. Using a spray bottle filled with water, mist the belt lightly. If the noise level recedes for several seconds, then returns louder, a misalignment problem is likely. If the noise immediately increa ses after the belt is sprayed, slipping is likely.
If the water spray test is inconclusive, or not successful at diagnosing the problem, attempt to remove the noisy belt and re-install it so that the belt runs in the opposite direction. Because misalignment noise is influenced by the direction of misalign ment in the drive, flipping the belt around in this manner will eliminate or significantly diminish (temporarily) any noise caused by drive misalignment. If the noise remains unchanged, the problem is not likely related to drive alignment.
In actual applications, the highest occurrence of belt noise due to misalignment comes from short belt spans entering large diameter pulleys. Service technicians are encouraged to look for the source of noise wherever these conditions exist.
Also, look for replaced drive components, such as a rebuilt alternator, which may have been improperly installed resulting in pulley misalignment.
Corrective Action
Failure to correct conditions responsible for belt noise will result in the problem returning, usually within 3,000 miles or less.
If the problem is drive-related, depending on the degree of misalignment, it may be possible to modify the noise level by installing a new belt with noise-resistant properties.
Gates engineers have developed new elastomeric compounds that are noise-resistant under various environmental and wear conditions. These new belts feature additives that enable them to slide easily into and out of the pulley. This low-noise construction h elps to eliminate belt noise from most misalignment situations.
In the case of severe misalignment, repositioning of drive components using shims, or by changing the press fit of the pulley or the shaft, may be required. Pulley alignment and tension must be correct on all V-ribbed belt applications for the drive to operate properly.

[iceman]

Be aware that to change this belt you must remove the front belt too. The tenaioner is kinda tough to get to as it is very low more towards the drivers side.

[hellfyr]

With a chirp, also keep in mind that the Alternator could be going out too.

At least it looks like it is easily accessible on the GT500s.

On the 04's it takes at least 3 subpoenas to get to it.

I have lost 3 alternators on my 04 so far:
1) Rear bearing disintegrated
2) Rear bearing damaged
3) Internal control board smoked

Finally gave up on Ford alternators and put in a NAPA lifetime warranted unit last summer. No issues since.

[Dactyl]

I've had this problem. Replaced the belt, still had the problem.

Take some WD-40 with a direction spray tip and on the lower main 10 rib belt tensioner spray WD-40 into the opening of the tensioner. There are one or two holes. That might take care of your chirp.

In my case, I replaced the tensioner all together, no more chirp.

Hope this helps.

[BEEKAY GT500]

i also had a belt chirp using the steeda idler. it is fully adjustable. my chirp was caused by the idler being adjusted too tight. i backed it out quite a bit and now the chirp was gone. with the metco you only have three settings so i don't know if you can go to the highest setting and avoid belt slip.

[Super Snake]

Replaced Metco single bearing Idler Pulley
Jury still out on chirp, I haven't driven it yet

[Alloy Dave]

[gr8snkbite]

Originally Posted by Super Snake

Replaced Metco single bearing Idler Pulley
Jury still out on chirp, I haven't driven it yet

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by Dactyl

I've had this problem. Replaced the belt, still had the problem.

Take some WD-40 with a direction spray tip and on the lower main 10 rib belt tensioner spray WD-40 into the opening of the tensioner. There are one or two holes. That might take care of your chirp.

In my case, I replaced the tensioner all together, no more chirp.

Hope this helps.

Van WD40 is not a good lubricant actually just the opposite. Something like Superlube would be a better choice to spray in there,just don't get any on the belt.

[68fastback]

I'm thinking the chirp might not be the belt. One way to tell is just spray a little water or Windex (with a fine-mist spary bottle) on the ribbed under-side of the belt. If it stops chirping it's likely a belt allignment problem causing a the ribs to glaze. If it doesn't go away (even if it changes pitch a bit) it's more likely an idler-pulley bearing whose seal has failed. If so, it's usually worse in very damp weather (dunno why). A Ford master tech told me about the water trick when I was tracking down a chirp of my wife's Taurus. He also told me that once they get really loud or nearly continuous the whole pulley can self-destruct from heat build-up. Based on the test I replaced the idler pulley and that was it. It hasn't recurred (in over 40Kmi) so he allignment must be ok. I mention that since a misalligned pulley can also shorten the life of the bearing as well. On a new car I would think it's more likely the belt, but I've read that the the 3V modular sometimes develops idler-pulley allignment issues with high-energy accessories (like superchargers). Dunno if applies to the 4V but would seem the idlers and how they mouint on the cam-drive covers is not all that different engineeering-wise. Just some thoughts...

[hydro]

Almost all chirping noise is caused by misalignment.hydro

[Vette Killer]

Originally Posted by 68fastback

I'm thinking the chirp might not be the belt. One way to tell is just spray a little water or Windex (with a fine-mist spary bottle) on the ribbed under-side of the belt. If it stops chirping it's likely a belt allignment problem causing a the ribs to glaze. If it doesn't go away (even if it changes pitch a bit) it's more likely an idler-pulley bearing whose seal has failed. If so, it's usually worse in very damp weather (dunno why). A Ford master tech told me about the water trick when I was tracking down a chirp of my wife's Taurus. He also told me that once they get really loud or nearly continuous the whole pulley can self-destruct from heat build-up. Based on the test I replaced the idler pulley and that was it. It hasn't recurred (in over 40Kmi) so he allignment must be ok. I mention that since a misalligned pulley can also shorten the life of the bearing as well. On a new car I would think it's more likely the belt, but I've read that the the 3V modular sometimes develops idler-pulley allignment issues with high-energy accessories (like superchargers). Dunno if applies to the 4V but would seem the idlers and how they mouint on the cam-drive covers is not all that different engineeering-wise. Just some thoughts...

Awesome tip on the spray bottle with water; thanks for sharing!

One other I have used is the screwdriver stethescoope...need to obviously be careful on a running engine but it is amazing how much you can pinpoint for noise with a long solid handle screwdriver up to your ear and touching different parts of the engine with the tip. It is especially helpful if you develop an ear for what is normal on your engine and accessories when it is new...learned this from a senior tech back when I was working on a lot of 2 stroke Detroits...so many parts and pieces in those engines you were lost if you couldn't isolate noise.

[68fastback]

Good tip! (and a good pun too ...develop an 'ear' for it -lol) ...length of vacuum hose works well too.

[Vette Killer]

Originally Posted by hydro

Almost all chirping noise is caused by misalignment.hydro

I seem to get a big chirp on the 1-2 shft, a little less on 2-3 and a chirp on 3-4 but I don't think it is a belt alignment issue....lol

[Carnut]

Originally Posted by Vette Killer

I seem to get a big chirp on the 1-2 shft, a little less on 2-3 and a chirp on 3-4 but I don't think it is a belt alignment issue....lol

It could be if you don't have enough notches in it.

[Vette Killer]

Originally Posted by Carnut

It could be if you don't have enough notches in it.

My chirps seem to be coming from the rear of the car though

[Alloy Dave]

Originally Posted by Vette Killer

Awesome tip on the spray bottle with water; thanks for sharing!

One other I have used is the screwdriver stethescoope...need to obviously be careful on a running engine but it is amazing how much you can pinpoint for noise with a long solid handle screwdriver up to your ear and touching different parts of the engine with the tip. It is especially helpful if you develop an ear for what is normal on your engine and accessories when it is new...learned this from a senior tech back when I was working on a lot of 2 stroke Detroits...so many parts and pieces in those engines you were lost if you couldn't isolate noise.

If you have long hair, be VERY careful.

I have an automotive stethoscope...works great.

[gr8snkbite]

is this still happening....

[Birdman]

[gr8snkbite]

Originally Posted by Birdman

what??? im just wondering ig he still has the noise....