Stock 8.8 Rear End Strength??

[iceman]

used the gasket as well as a little silicone for my own sanity - I like that stuff No leaks at all to date.

[SLGT750]

I have always used this stuff without a gasket and have never had a leak.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by SLGT750

I have always used this stuff without a gasket and have never had a leak.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

....same here ...

[6-Speed]

Originally Posted by TOMMY GUN

I added this...

TA Performance Bearing Cap Stud Kit

Along w/ the cover to help stiffen up the rear gears in hopes to keep them from flexing over time.
.

Where do the Bearing cap studs install? Do they replace the ones in the Ford Racing axle girdle? If so, why change them?

[6-Speed]

Originally Posted by iceman

used the gasket as well as a little silicone for my own sanity - I like that stuff No leaks at all to date.

Got this tip from the other site and ordered a Lube Locker gasket to install when changing out the differential cover.

Lube Locker 8.8" Gasket from Blue Collar Performance

LubeLocker Gaskets

[6-Speed]

I'm re-posting this since it disappeared a few days ago.

Here are a few pictures of the FR differential cover including one that shows the two studs that brace the carrier bearing caps.

The panhard bar got in the way and kept me from installing it. I'm going to wait for the 3.73 gears before the cover goes on.

[6-Speed]

Originally Posted by 6-Speed

Got this tip from the other site and ordered a Lube Locker gasket to install when changing out the differential cover.

Lube Locker 8.8" Gasket from Blue Collar Performance

LubeLocker Gaskets

These Lube Locker gaskets for the 8.8 differential cover are outstanding. I have one installed on my car now after removing and re-installing the stock cover. No more messy RTV or having to scrape off the old gasket.

[Vette Killer]

Originally Posted by 6-Speed

Where do the Bearing cap studs install? Do they replace the ones in the Ford Racing axle girdle? If so, why change them?

The studs replace the bolts for the bearing caps that hold the pumpkin in (see the illustrations) think of this like head studs vs. head bolts; you get more positive clamp load torquing the nut on the stud....the studs through the rear end cover place support load into the center of the caps to reduce deflection so you have three support points instead of two.

Ford Service Manuals - REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Carrier.pdf click on the link that says diff carrier when you get there....apparently I am link challenged....

The big problem with deflection is it changes the tooth contact between the pinion and the ring gear and moves the load further away from the root of the tooth towards the tip....as you move further up the gear face the tooth is weaker and you also have a smaller contact area so the load is placed on less surface area on the weaker part of the tooth....makes sense?

[6-Speed]

Thanks for taking the time to explain. I still don't get it though - with clamping load being different between tightening a bolt versus tightening a nut onto a stud.

[Vette Killer]

Originally Posted by 6-Speed

Thanks for taking the time to explain. I still don't get it though - with clamping load being different between tightening a bolt versus tightening a nut onto a stud.

When you tighten a bolt (into a blind hole) you are over-coming friction on the whole thread engagement portion of the bolt plus you are "coiling" the unthreaded portion which leads to a lower clamp load as it relaxes a certain amount after you finish torquing it.

On a stud when you torque it you are only over-coming the friction of the threaded portion of the nut and you do not get anywhere near the same coil. I tried looking around for some high speed video of this on the net but no luck...you will be blown away by how much recoil there is on a bolt going into a blind hole. The Super Bolt guys that I deal with have a display video they showed me but I can't find it; it wasn't a sales video or anything just a demonstration, it's not on their site or You Tube.

For critical fasteners most manufactures now use a torque turn method to achieve a more precise clamp load.

There is a bit of info at the ARP site ARP | Frequently Asked Questions but nothing too earth shattering.

[6-Speed]

Originally Posted by Vette Killer

When you tighten a bolt (into a blind hole) you are over-coming friction on the whole thread engagement portion of the bolt plus you are "coiling" the unthreaded portion which leads to a lower clamp load as it relaxes a certain amount after you finish torquing it.

On a stud when you torque it you are only over-coming the friction of the threaded portion of the nut and you do not get anywhere near the same coil. I tried looking around for some high speed video of this on the net but no luck...you will be blown away by how much recoil there is on a bolt going into a blind hole. The Super Bolt guys that I deal with have a display video they showed me but I can't find it; it wasn't a sales video or anything just a demonstration, it's not on their site or You Tube.

For critical fasteners most manufactures now use a torque turn method to achieve a more precise clamp load.

There is a bit of info at the ARP site ARP | Frequently Asked Questions but nothing too earth shattering.

Makes sense now. Would the torque spec using the stud/nut be less than for the bolt since the same clamp force can be achieved with a lower overall torque?

[Vette Killer]

Originally Posted by 6-Speed

Makes sense now. Would the torque spec using the stud/nut be less than for the bolt since the same clamp force can be achieved with a lower overall torque?

Torque values are generally set by either the clamp load required (i.e. bearing crush, fire ring retention etc.) or the bolt yield. When you torque something you are turning the shank of the fastener into a retaining spring so swapping to a stud you would not lower the torque; if anything you would up it for more clamp load where practical as the design will take a higher clamp load.

Over the years I have swapped everything under stress over to studs that can practically be swapped over to studs (the ARP example of head bolts being needed in some cars due to the master cylinder is a good example of where it isn't always practical)....as an example, had a Silver 92 Detroit in a race truck (semi) that we were always knocking head gaskets out of (2 stages of compound turbos and an additional stage with the blower) until we went to head studs.

[Birdman]

Originally Posted by Vette Killer

When you tighten a bolt (into a blind hole) you are over-coming friction on the whole thread engagement portion of the bolt plus you are "coiling" the unthreaded portion which leads to a lower clamp load as it relaxes a certain amount after you finish torquing it.

On a stud when you torque it you are only over-coming the friction of the threaded portion of the nut and you do not get anywhere near the same coil. I tried looking around for some high speed video of this on the net but no luck...you will be blown away by how much recoil there is on a bolt going into a blind hole. The Super Bolt guys that I deal with have a display video they showed me but I can't find it; it wasn't a sales video or anything just a demonstration, it's not on their site or You Tube.

For critical fasteners most manufactures now use a torque turn method to achieve a more precise clamp load.

There is a bit of info at the ARP site ARP | Frequently Asked Questions but nothing too earth shattering.

Originally Posted by 6-Speed

Got this tip from the other site and ordered a Lube Locker gasket to install when changing out the differential cover.

Lube Locker 8.8" Gasket from Blue Collar Performance

LubeLocker Gaskets

Originally Posted by Vette Killer

The studs replace the bolts for the bearing caps that hold the pumpkin in (see the illustrations) think of this like head studs vs. head bolts; you get more positive clamp load torquing the nut on the stud....the studs through the rear end cover place support load into the center of the caps to reduce deflection so you have three support points instead of two.

Ford Service Manuals - REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Carrier.pdf click on the link that says diff carrier when you get there....apparently I am link challenged....

The big problem with deflection is it changes the tooth contact between the pinion and the ring gear and moves the load further away from the root of the tooth towards the tip....as you move further up the gear face the tooth is weaker and you also have a smaller contact area so the load is placed on less surface area on the weaker part of the tooth....makes sense?

Good info by both of you guys! Good thread 6speed.

[6-Speed]

When I re-installed the OEM differential cover, I used the Lube Locker gasket. It works great, no leaks what so ever and without any RTV. Spent a good hour scraping the RTV off the cover - don't want to do that again.

[King Cobra]

Originally Posted by Birdman

Good info by both of you guys! Good thread 6speed.

+1 Guys. Thanks for sharing.